

Give me a bit. I posted wrong, but it’s being written up now.
DaGeek247 of https://dageek247.com/
Give me a bit. I posted wrong, but it’s being written up now.
I know most of the less expensive used hardware is going to be server-shaped/rackmount. Don’t go for it unless you have a garage or shed that you can stuff them in. They put out jet-engine levels of noise and require god tier soundproofing in order to quiet them. The ones that are advertised as quiet are quiet as compared to other server hardware.
You can grab an epyc motherboard that is ATX and will do all you want, and can then move it to a rackmount later if you end up going that way.
The NVIDIA launch has been a bit of a paper one. I don’t expect the prices of anything else to adjust down, rather the 5090 may just end up adjusting itself up. This may change over time, but the next couple of months aren’t likely to have major deals worth holding out for.
Just think of your point that they are using residential IP addresses. How do they get these addresses?
You can ping all of the ipv4 addresses in under an hour. If all you’re looking for is publicly available words written by people, you only have to poke port 80 and then suddenly you have practically every possible small self-hosted website out there.
I have the previous model. It does a great job of playing videos from my server in the other room. It technically can do YouTube, but that’s a pretty horrible experience. It can’t do any other paid streaming services.
But it does do an amazing job of local streaming. It handles most all of the audio and video codecs, and can direct stream just about any video file without too much playing around. I like mine, and definitely recommend it for anyone who also wants a trustworthy local media player.
I would like to be able to let friends connect from outside my house to stream media and allow them access so they can add films and the server goes off and finds them, extracts them, and adds them to the media server.
This is going to be the second most expensive part of this process (the first being storage). Direct streaming for one person can be done on anything that can play your chosen video quality. Streaming for other people will require at least a video card, and a processor that can handle multiple people, as well as the extra storage that other people will want to use. You can use a single pi4 for one person, but you’ll want to look at a desktop PC with a modern-ish graphics card (for the encode) if you want to share with other people.
It really depends on the model. Best to pay attention to it like the previous comment mentioned.
The best way to meet your low power requirement, which you listed as the most important, is by having flash storage. The other half of this is that used hardware is going to be worse at power management than an SBC too. It may be worth doing the math to see how long the power draw difference will take to even out the cost of using flash storage instead of magnetic storage.
The other part of this is that you could just grab a 2.5" hard drive and split the difference on price/GB. https://uk.pcpartpicker.com/product/xCKhP6/seagate-barracuda-5tb-25-5400rpm-internal-hard-drive-st5000lm000 start with two, and if you run out of space, or obtain more money, add two more from a different brand.
I use syncthing to keep all my documents and pictures synced between my devices.
There were 30 phones released this year with aux and a ipx8 rating. It’s not a consideration worth arguing about. If the phone manufacturers wanted to have an aux port, they’d have an aux port.
That has practically nothing to do with having an aux port.
It’s so the container has the correct local time. It doesn’t matter unless you’re trying to schedule things in the container and don’t want to calculate the offset every time you do.
Yeah, I was hoping that it was referencing more security updates too. It would put a solid chunk of value into the older versions.
Ahh. Two more years of OS updates added to match the already five years of security updates.
Yup. If the sd card doesnt have enough space for everything, you could attach an m.2 hat to it as well. https://www.raspberrypi.com/news/using-m-2-hat-with-raspberry-pi-5/
Basically, jellyfin on the pi, with the wifi setup as an access point, and whatever amount of storage you need. The pi requires 5v/5a, so you’ll probably run into issues running off the car usb power, but a cheap 30amp hour battery should run it for 6-10 hours if my napkin math is right.
After minor setup, my experience has been incredibly plug and play.
You understand that, for everyone except for a complete network pro, that is worse for security and privacy, right?
Don’t get me wrong, it’s great that you can.
But the reason piracy websites struggle so much with long term stability isn’t because they’re hosting the wrong software.
Or just use a password manager like keepass where the problem of storing passwords has been solved already…
waterfall displays
Finally someone agrees with me. I swear it felt like I was the only sane person around. The curved edges made no sense design, use, or otherwise.
I managed to mostly skip that BS by going with phones that didn’t use it, but I still had the occasional misstep whenever using someone else’s phone to check out their photo or whatever.
Frankly, I’m happy to see it become less mainstream.
They exist, but they’re not nearly as fleshed out as the bitcoin vanity generators are. https://github.com/danielewood/vanityssh-go
Posted wrong, here’s my whole story:
I have a single AC damper that is fail-close, but was wired as always powered open by the people who put the AC unit into my house before I bought it. This would be fine, except I live near a meat packing plant, and sometimes the air outside stinks. I want to be able to close and open the damper based on various criteria I get from home assistant. (air quality, direction, speed, etc)
This is the AC damper unit: https://www.resideo.com/us/en/pro/products/air/forced-air-zoning/replacement-actuators/replacement-motor-for-eard-ventilation-damper-m847d-vent-u/
This is the shelly plus uni im trying to use: https://us.shelly.com/products/shelly-plus-uni
And the multimeter says the output power for the damper (which is powered by my AC unit) outputs 30V AC power.
I was able to power the shelly device by just plugging it into the AC power with Red to Red, and Black to Black. However, it turns out the Shelly device does not send that power out through its two switchable outputs. Those are called “dry circuits” apparently.
So my goal is to power the shelly device, the ac damper device, and have the shelly device ALSO switch the damper on and off. I know it’s possible, I just don’t know how.
So, the above diagram is my attempt to wire the shelly device into the setup. However, whenever I power the relay in the shelly device, the shelly device fries itself. So I’m looking for where I went wrong, and how to make it all work.