rustfmt

is stopping me from writing code like this, and I have never been more happier using it after viewing this.

Bastard user from hell

Every IT/software group needs to have one, otherwise you get complacent.

Yeah it’s steadily getting enshittified.

I used to have a mythtv box that I’d built , like, 15 years ago and it was pretty good. For a while there TV UIs were adequate enough that I didn’t need it, but it seems that maybe it’s time to build another one.

TVs that do anything more than displaying a signal exactly as it’s input shouldn’t exist.

Some of that input could do with a bit of tweaking though.

I wouldn’t mind if the TV was able to do things with the audio track, like remove background music, or lift the volume of people speaking, or erase laugh tracks/live audience hooting& hollering.

There’s probably similar manipulation that you could do on the video side (eventually, once TVs stop getting the worst processors ever, not here and now). Imagine a prompt that says “Airbrush every recognisable brand name on-screen so that it blends with the background”.

I seriously doubt if any major manufacturer would do that kind of thing though, so better get working on jailbreaking those TVs.

You can just use a soulseek client.

However I have a build of this daemon running on a Qnap storage device, which is super handy just for ad-hoc music searches, and people can also peruse my music library 24/7.

I search for complicated things on google, because that’s when I need to search for stuff.

I take about three seconds to look at the LLM-generated summaries/answers, disregard them as tedious monotonic bullshit, and then scroll down to links where real people are discussing the real problems and the real solutions they have.

22 million users. 2700 million likes. 122 likes per user?

That engagement ratio seems a little off?

You’ve got the motive back to front.

yah, let’s get rid of these cheap, easily manufactured and implemented dials and knobs

In modern cars those buttons are an input to a body computer which then sends commands over the vehicle data bus to another module that performs the appropriate function. The touchscreen option is much cheaper once you have more than a few buttons to deal with.

Buttons have different physical shapes, the little decal for the button on each one has to be printed and put on top, each one needs to be connected to power, each one needs to be slotted into the dash somewhere , each one needs to be backlit so you can use it at night, and the signal for each one has to be routed somewhere through increasingly bulky harnesses, etc etc.

A touchscreen sits on the vehicle data bus and with a bit of software, sends whatever command is needed.

Is it a great user experience to press fiddly buttons on a touchscreen while driving down a bumpy road? Fuck no. But it is definitely cheaper and less complicated for the manufacturer.

Something like a raspberry pi or equivalent, and use reverse SSH set up to connect to a server with a known address on your end.

This means that ports don’t need to be opened on their end.

Also if you go with a gateway host, shift SSH to a randomised port like 37465, and install fail2ban.

As if the software was as permanent as the hardware lol

There’s no guarantee that the software will ever be updated to something that the user finds usable though.

Google could just one day go “meh, we don’t think folding displays are where we want to be right now”, and - ta-da! - you’re left with a folding doorstop and Google’s got yet another entry on the “killed by Google” list.

Never understood why smartphones are so super bright by default.

Because they have to compete with 50k lux outside and then scale to 600 lux indoors, then down to just to a few lux in a darkened room.

Perhaps the brightness slider needs to be more logarithmic so you can slide from 0.001 percent to 100 percent more easily.

I don’t think there’s anything commercially available that can do it.

However, as an experiment, you could:

• Get a group of photos from a burst shot
• Encode them as individual frames using a modern video codec using, eg VLC.
• See what kind of file size you get with the resulting video output.
• See what artifacts are introduced when you play with encoder settings.

You could probably/eventually script this kind of operation if you have software that can automatically identify and group images.

Horn switches switch to ground. Power for your original horn relay is supplied from a fused battery source, passes through the horn relay, and when you press the horn button the button completes the circuit to earth, triggering the relay.

So, you need to wire your relay coil like this -

12 volts from a fused battery source to:

Your relay coil, to:

The horn switch, which then switches to:

Ground.

Just like how your current horn relay works.

This also works for older cars that do not have the really. They supply power to the horn, and then a single wire runs from the horn back to the horn button, which then completes the circuit to ground when pressed.

They could have hooked the phone up to a windscreen wiper motor (a high torque motor with a crank arm) and left it to run for a few hours, that would have given them about 10,000 open/close cycles. But no, it’s “let’s hang a 5kg weight off it and use the phone as a bit of a hammer”.

True. Hence my caveat of “most cards”. If it’s got LEDs on the port, it’s quite likely to signal which speed it is at with those LEDs.

I haven’t yet come across a gigabit card that won’t do 10Mbit (edit: switches are a different matter) but sometimes I’ve come across cards that fail to negotiate speeds correctly, eg trying for gigabit when they only actually have a 4 wire connection that can support 100Mbit. Forcing the card to the “correct” speed makes them work.

Someone with only a tenuous grip on their sanity, I’d imagine.

*shrugs*

The current state of Nova Launcher will take my four year old phone with Android 13 to the end of its life.

For later reference, the link light on most network cards is a different colour depending on link speed. Usually orange for 1G, green for 100M and off for 10M (with data light still blinking).

I have not cared about or terminated A-spec after network cards gained auto MDI/MDIX about 20 years ago.

Google play reports an update with a few fixes a couple of months ago.