zero problems with docker, maybe try that.

docker?

before you take the jump, consider a way lighter and easier alternative - syncthing (files) and radicale (calendar, contacts). dependable, bullet-proof, super-lightweight, zero issues - everything nextcloud isn’t.

I was the happiest when I finally booted nextcloud off my network, never to return.

is this a humblebrag? if so, congrats, you a rich motherfucker, mad respect.

if you’re actually serious with this question, then yeah, you’re good for the foreseeable future; maybe double the storage as that increases your build’s price by what 5%?

upgrade went without a hitch (docker), only thing needed changing is the web UI password in docker-compose.yml. everything works, UI is infinitely faster, first impressions very positive.

saw your other post as well, there’s so much stuff in your stack that you have to narrow your issues down to the malfunctioning item, there’s no way you’re gonna stumble upon someone with your exact setup.

start with existing element x apps communicating over matrix.org (use throwaway accounts if you don’t trust it) and unified push using ntfy.sh. if everything works there, then you can start replacing one by one of these until you achieve full functionality or something breaks.

there’s dosdude1 soldering away on NAND chips; this should be a walk in the park even for a hobbyist.

as to macgyvering, the S in USB is for “serial” and such a connection needs very few wires, three if I’m not mistaken. so an absent USB connector could be fixed temporarily with clips and wires and such.

for uploading, absolutely use syncthing. you can set it up so that it works in only one direction, i.e. phone to server, so any file that appears on the phone’s download folder gets sent to the server. the one you want is syncthing-fork on fdroid.

as to listening to the music via youtube check out innertune, also on fdroid.

sure, thanks for helping out. got now a cheap hack for lighting my abode, commercial solutions are like 6-8x the price. the CRI is crap but it’s better than nothing.

As of right now, Plasma Bigscreen isn’t available for public use yet.

well, I sorted it. just like @fuzzy_feeling@programming.dev and others guessed, that was the correct spot to get the power from. the issue with the fluctuating voltage was due to my shitty multimeter, checked it with another one and boom, 12 V. well, no boom, that’s just an expression.

that’s a solid line, I’m gonna try that. hopefully won’t burn nothing of value. thanks

they are. and the voltage is fluctuating (for the fade in/out light effect) when measured there. so I need to find the fucker that’s doing that and bypass it.

the whole thing (5 meter strip, remote, PSU/controller) cost like $5 total so I’m guessing that’s some ingenuity at play, like reusing strips meant for RGB lights and sumsuch

measuring difference between ground plane and the various points didn’t give me a stable voltage. the black thingy leading to the 12 V line is a SS210 (search says that’s a schottky diode) and on its output the mentioned fluctuation is happening. on its input there’s some very low voltage happening that’s also fluctuating, like sub 1V (got a shitty multimeter).

if I’m understanding this correctly, then this thing boosts the voltage but the fluctuation is happening somewhere else. in other words, there is no 12 V source on this board. or?

they are white LEDs i.e. they shine white. the R G B leads are used to trigger them individually, for the running lights and whatnot. so when I bring 12 V to the V lead and GND to e.g. R, all the LEDs marked R (image) light up. when I then short R with G, then all R and G light up, etc.

it’s a RGB strip but with white LEDs.

so when I bring 12 V to the 12 V lead and then GND to the R, G, or B contact, the respective LEDs light up. when I bring GND to one and then short them (R+G+B) all the LEDs light up.

sure, I tried it with a known good 12 V PSU and it works, but I’d like to use this one and just bypass the light-show circuitry.

I do, and when I check the 12 V wire, it fluctuates between 12 and 5 V (that’s the blink/fade thing) so I need 12 V before it gets mangled. where am I most likely to get it from?

edit: how do I check if the plane is ground with a multimeter?

which ones?

dios mio, with the “sign petition” and “vote harder”, a waste of energy and dulling the blade of revolt.