Ohh okay don’t worry for being too “aggressive”
Thank you for saying out the risks for people like me who doesn’t know that much in electricity
And thank you for your answers
Someone
Ohh okay don’t worry for being too “aggressive”
Thank you for saying out the risks for people like me who doesn’t know that much in electricity
And thank you for your answers
Thx for the advice, gonna check the transistor
And I think that my meter is capable of 240V but gonna inspect it with help of electricity guy
Gonna try it
That does sound like some part of the controller electronics has been dieing for a while, and has now finally keeled over.
Will try to check the transistor and else
You wrote originally, that you tested what you could with desoldering anything. Measuring resistance in circuit always renders a murky result.
Okay didn’t really known that, not so good in electricity sadly… :(
The brown wire is likely what is known as phase or live. Blue will be neutral. But measuring resistance on the input only tells you how much current will flow in the present state of relays. What could help you come closer to an answer is following the first law of troubleshooting “thou shalt check voltages”. With a device that operates two live rails this will not be both easy and safe at the same time, so don’t rush it. I suggest you figure out what voltages to measure, then solder wires to the relevant nodes. Terminate the wires in a terminal block, where you’re protected from touching the screw. Assemble the device as best you can with all the wires coming out, and then power it on, get your voltages and deduce from that.
Didn’t really understand, can you explain it a bit more? Sorry 😅 About your warning is it dangerous to measure a 230V current with my multimeter (with precautions, gloves mainly)
My initial working theory would be that the transistor switching the fan is dead and I would be looking closely in that area. If that transistor has failed closed and is shorting the controller electronics VCC rail, that would explain a lot. Maybe I’d go so far as to test it without checking voltages (gasp!)
Going to check that, but what are the VCC rails?
About the batteries, I didn’t think they are fully charged with their 12.6V, and I should try to make them go around 12.8-12.9V, but is it possible that because they have gone to 5V they wouldn’t have enough “punch” now and wouldn’t be able to work properly?
Almost there is definitely a problem. It was working fine, but sometimes it would just not go to batteries and stuck in a fault with continuous beep. After that, I let it for 2 weeks, the batteries were 5V, but I tried to charge them and for now they went to 12.6V stable (as normal…), but even with that it does the problem described and does not works as before
Answered in the 1.
I’ve tested the resistors, all proper to their written value, and relays, proper resistance too (85 ohms for one (just on the brown power plant cable), and 260 for the others)
Will try to find others batteries to try, but normally it charges batteries by lighting up the display properly + the fan does not start. And here the UPS is not connect to any AC power, only the batteries were plugged
I don’t think there is any temperature sensor because the fan is simply turning on when on battery. Update the post with a picture of the pcb
Its a Riello UPS NPW 2000
Okay thank you
Yeah for now I will stay with lead batteries thx
Ohhh okay, sad… Is there a way to get these 12v to use it instead of the stock lead batteries?
It is written on the back of the powerbank (sorry but I’m not so good in electrics)
On the paper they are 12v, so what makes the real output voltage
I’m not that good in electricity but basically are lithium batteries from power banks would work the same as 12v lead car batteries?
Thank you for replying again, I think I found the problem, the UPS is faulty…
I think the problem is the PSU of the server (and I think this normal, not a fault of it), will check further
Sadly I don’t have a pure sine wave UPS, but if I’d tried it I would replace my riello one. But I think that it would work with the server… Do you think it’s any good to try to find a solution or buy a rsw one?
Only one and it’s a 750 w one. The UPS has a capacity of 900w
The load of the UPS is at its lowest even at boot
Seen that dell server PSUs are not really friendly with mdw but when PFC disabled it should not pose problems… But here it does
So it wouldn’t work with my PC?
Sorry I was talking about disabling the PFC with the dell Idrac, not the bios.
Going to try some heavy load on it.
Noticed that these platform’s logos are very based on a round like movement